Rear Wheel Information

Step-by-step tire removal instructions
http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/24253.html

Rear Wheel Maintenance
Mike Martin's web site - click on the link for the O-Ring
http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/32743.html?1081669456

Lube Points
English
Mixed Translation

Having now done this . . I have a few comments:

• Put the bike on the center stand with some planks - raising it up a bit seems to help
• There's a silver spacer inside the pumpkin.  There are definite differences between the size of each end on this spacer.  When it's wrong, the wheel will not go on.  When it's right, it sticks in there pretty solid.
• Wear gloves when working with the moly, it makes a pretty good mess and it's hard to get off your fingers.  It's also hard to get out of the cracks in the ceramic tile kitchen floor.
• The o-ring that's under the final drive flange was hard to get out, it was flat and hard - definitely needed replacing.
• It's not a bad job, just messy.
• I removed the rear fender, four allen bolts and it was much easier to just roll the tire out.
• I also loosed the muffler bolts and swung it out of the way.  It made it much easier to remove the rear caliper pin and properly torque everything down.  All you need to do is remove the mounting bolt and loosen the two muffler bolts a bit - it swings right down.
• There are lots of resources on how to do all of this and pictures of where the o-rings are.  The web gives better information than the service manual.
• Forgetting the thrust washer means that you get to pull the tire a second time.  Once you get good at this, you can have the tire off and on in about 20 minutes
• Torque Settings
  • Rear-Caliper stopper bin bolt - 51 ft/lb
  • Rear-Axle pinch bolt - 20 ft/lb
  • Rear axle - 80 ft/lb