Timing Belt and Hose Replacement

Other very helpful links

  • Koczarski - Timing Belt - excellent pictures
  • Koczarski - Cooling Hoses - excellent pictures
  • Martin - very good written description for both the timing belt change and the coolant hose replacement.
  • Brunner -  the original text of this article.  I had a hard time following Martin's instructions as presented on John and Becci Parker's web site.  I took Martin's directions and made them a little more friendly (for me anyway).  I didn't intentionally change any content, just a few words and made a lot of lists.
  • From my-mc - a discussion - check the links in the discussion
  • Good pictures of the cover mods
  • A current invoice from Service Honda for most of the parts - about $180.  Ignore the last two on the list, they are unrelated to the timing belt job.
  • I did take the Service Honda invoice into the dealer.  They had no real interest in getting close.  Oh well- I tried.
  • Several people commented that I should replace the idler pulley, tensioner and water pump. Probably not a bad idea, but I just didn't have the money to do it.  Other people said that at 90,000, it wasn't really necessary, but at 180,000 it was probably more necessary.  Current prices (3/05) for those parts are:
    • $204.60 - 19200-MT3-000 - Water Pump
    • $     4.84 - 19226-MT3-000  - Water Pump O-Ring
    • $     1.86 - 91301-MC7-003 - Water Pump O-Ring
    • $   60.48 - 14510-MT3-003  Tensioner
    • $   45.63 - 14560-MT3-003 Idler
    • $ 317.41 - Total

Created By
Martin Brunner STOC# 637 PanEuro# 42
martin.brunner@webcity.at
Vienna, AuSTria, Europe

Disassembly

  1. Remove Saddlebags

  2. Remove Seat

  3. Remove Side Covers

  4. Remove Belly Pan

  5. Remove Grey side fairings (the ones with the pockets)

  6. Remove Lower fairings including the tip wing covers

  7. Pull the speedo cable from wheel-drive (Philips bolt)

  8. Remove the U-shaped fairing below headlight & around radiator inlet

  9. Drain radiator at it's plug (goes faster with cap off)

  10. Remove the horn

  11. Remove the hose clamps from radiator/hoses

  12. Remove the 2 M6 bolts holding the radiator on its top (getting it out requires a bit of fiddling, it's bottom is sited with a dot into a rubber in the frame)

  13. Remove the 2 silver covers in front of the valve covers (2 hex bolts each)

  14. Remove the spark plugs

  15. Remove the two upper T-belt housing covers up on the heads

  16. The larger middle timing belt cover gets a bit tricky since it's somehow fixed with the clutch-cover (doing it right would require one to remove/open the clutch cover as well). Normally, it can be removed without loosening the clutch cover (requires some patience).

  17. After the first time, the cover can be modified with a knife or a Dremel tool to make installation and subsequent removal quite a bit easier. It normally gets hung up on the crank-pulley bolt. Some silicone grease on the seals will also help.

  18. After all of this is done, the T-belt is now fully accessible

Remove the old Timing Belt

  1. Note that the crank-pulley and the 2 cam-pulleys are marked. The c/pulleys have lines (not dots, the lines are the marks) and the crank-pulley a mark for #1 TDC (top dead center). All three of the pulley marks have opposites on the housing (little arrows).

  2. Using a 17mm ratchet, turn the crank pulley (in the engine's normal direction) till all three are matching their respective housing marks. Be sure to check this very carefully. Double check to be really sure!

  3. Don't move any of the pulleys during the following work stages

  4. Remove the "guide-disc" from the LHS cam-pulley (12mm nut). Don't move the pulleys from the marks!

  5. Identify the spanner pulley; it's located almost fully on the RHS (riding direction) and has a base with a spring. Loosen its center-bolt and push it downward to clear the T-belt from tensioner, leave it there. It would be best to replace it together with the T-belt, but that's just an opinion).

  6. The T-belt can now be carefully removed.  Some fiddling will be needed around the crank-pulley, but it's ok. Wash your hands before opening the packing of the new T-belt. Oil and antifreeze are bad for the belt.

Install the new Timing Belt

  1. Get it onto the crank-pulley

  2. Over the LHS cam-pulley

  3. Over the middle guide roll

  4. Over the RHS cam-pulley

  5. Check now carefully to see if both cam-pulleys are still matching the marks, it’s easy to get it wrong by 1 sprocket

  6. Over the spanner pulley

  7. Be sure the T-belt is correctly aligned, be sure that all the marks are still aligned. If you are absolutely sure, then loosen the bolt for the spanner pulley and let it snap onto the T-belt. Torque the bolt to 40NM.

  8. Replace the guide disc on LHS cam-pulley, torque to 27NM

Finally

Put it back together in reverse order

When ready and fully nervous to see if it will start, leave the "kill" switch in OFF position for 2 starter cranks, just in case. If something is wrong, hopefully it will cause less damage :)

Other Helpful Comments

Robert Smith writes:
I looked in the Service Manual and the 1100 has a spring-loaded, self-tensioning pulley also, however, there is an associated procedure of crankshaft rotation stopping at a specific position for the final tightening of the tensioner pulley. I'm guessing that this procedure helps "seat" the belt and puts it in a "stretched/loaded or tensioned" condition so that all the slack is out when the tensioner is tightened.

One other area to pay attention to (in the process of getting TO the timing belt) is the radiator mounting. This bit me a year or so ago, so I'm sensitive to it. The radiator is held in place by two bolts in tabs at the top and the bottom is "pinned" by a pin in the center of the radiator frame that goes into a hole in the frame cross member. If you look carefully at the two bottom corners of the radiator, you'll find that they (at least the one on the rider's right) come very close to the frame. At some point in time, my radiator managed to get to the point where the lower corner of the radiator was making contact with the frame and over a few years of "hammering" during the vibrations of riding, it beat a hole in the radiator end cap. Make sure when you replace the radiator that you have about 1/8" of air space between the two. Could have been worst case assembly tolerance that placed mine in contact...not sure how it happened. Easily remedied by gently bending the tabs welded to the upper frame until you have adequate clearance to prevent contact.